On the Road with the Grape Guy

Gambero Rosso - Tre Bicchieri 2021 Web Show (Part 2)

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Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy

(March 2021) ... This “web show” had been in the works for a number of months before it finally came about. Dates were offered up as potential, but due to conditions and other factors that I'm sure have to do with getting wine into the country, the delay stretched on ... Finally, Gambero Rosso was able to have their show and we (as journalists) were privileged to enjoy these wines.

Who is Gambero Rosso???

Gambero Rosso is an Italian food and wine magazine and publishing group founded in 1986. The name translates to “red prawn” which is the name of the tavern in Pinocchio (where the fox and the cat dined). They have produced 24 editions of “The Italian Wine Bible” including the new 2021 edition.

The web show was broken down into two parts, held over two days (March 26th and March 30th) - each day eight wines were highlighted from throughout Italy - and each was specially selected by Gambero Rosso because of its high quality in showcasing Italian wine excellence.

Below are my selections/notes from the day two tasting:
(rating are out of 5 stars and appear at the end of the tasting note)

Bortolomiol 2019 Valdobbiadene Brut lus Naturae (Veneto)
"Their dense network of local growers have proven and invaluable asset, as has the estate vineyards." - Gambero Rosso
As with most Prosecco wines this is made with 100% Glera grapes in the charmat method ... It's a wine that's light and fruity with crisp apple and lime zest notes - but what makes this one even more special are the salted-almond and mineral notes that also appear.  (*** ½+)

Vite Colte 2018 Barbera d'Asti Superiore La Luna e i Falo (Piedmont)
"A shared agronomic protocol that brings together 180 members who cover a total of no less than 300 hectares of vineyards." - Gambero Rosso
A Barbera wine that spends 12 months in French oak barrels of which 33% are new ... when I removed the capsule I was horrified to see a plastic cork in this wine (which means it's age-ability is limited), but thankfully it's a fresh and fruity wine that's light and easy to drink - it comes across like an Italian version of Gamay, crushable and full of cherry and raspberry fruit with a dusting of white pepper. Consume over the next two to three years (that closure won't allow it to go any further, especially based on how light and fruity it is now).  (*** ½+)

Badia A Coltibuono 2018 Chianti Classico (Tuscany)
“Have managed to maintain a unique and inimitable character, demonstrating that the power of terroir sometimes exceeds all else." - Gambero Rosso
Winery established in 1051 so there is lots of history here, today they use indigenous yeast and organic practices - when asked about the most recent harvest versus those of their historical past it was noted that they used to harvest in October and November, now they harvest in September; and while alcohol levels were traditionally hovering around 12% they now push 13 to 13.5% - "keeping freshness is the challenge” (said their winery representative). With that challenge thrown down, Coltibuono has accepted and delivered. This wine has 10% "traditional grapes” namely Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo and spends 12 months in both French and Austrian oak. First thing you'll notice is the color - beautiful ruby red and the aromas of floral, smoky, cranberry leading to a great mouthfeel that's soft and supple balanced by its acidity: Cherry, balsamic, stony and salty - and while the nose remains fairly shy, the palate is expressive, elegant and gentle ... really food friendly with that lovely acid backbone. (****+)

Tenuta di Arceno 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany)
“Increasingly convincing, American-owned Tenuta di Arceno (Kendall-Jackson Group), which produces wines of impeccable quality and craftsmanship." - Gambero Rosso
On the property they grow 50% Sangiovese and 50% other varieties (mostly international) - the other 10% of this Chianti is Cabernet Sauvignon taken from the highest point of the estate; aged 10 months in French (with never any new used) - total aging ends up being 24 months before release. The alcohol is a high 14.5%, which helps create that rich, round almost sweet dark fruit note to this Chianti, but the balancing act the acidity plays here helps it from being an over-the-top, weighty mess and even shows a freshness and age-ability: Smoky black cherry, floral, tobacco, cassis, cinnamon, aniseed, black licorice, a little char and even some herbal/savoury notes all help add to the enjoyment of this wine. Love the complexity. The tannins are quite tight now but should loosen their grip over the next 10 or so years.  (****+)

Piaggia 2017 Carmignano Riserva (Tuscany)
"The estates vineyards are situated in the municipality of Poggio a Calano and Carmignano, and fall within the Carmignano DOC appellation. " - Gambero Rosso
With 30% of the wine being composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot there’s no mention of oak aging during the tasting – but this wine has a weight, texture and structure that denotes something that has seen elements of oak in it's making. Licorice, black cherry, slightly smoky and all with a beautiful richness and spice with balsamic and cedar also making an appearance. The acidity balances this wine and helps create a long luxurious finish. Nothing overpowers, nothing overwhelms: balance, complexity and structure are the name of the game here.  (**** ½)

Tenuta Monteti 2016 Monteti (Tuscany)
"Located near Capalbio in the southernmost part of Maremma wine country." - Gambero Rosso
A wine that forgoes the traditional grape of Tuscany (Sangiovese) completely, instead combining 45% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc spending 18 months in French barrique (70% new and 30% second fill), then it is bottle aged and extra 24 months before release; and while an odd Italian combination the results are a delight: blue and black fruit dominate with smoky black cherry, white and black pepper and a fresh juicy blackberry, blueberry plus a nice creamy finish. (****+)

Late Arrival ...
There were two wines that were late arrivals due to being “blocked at customs”. One wine for each tasting this is a wine was from part two that arrived late.

Tacchino 2016 Barbera del M. to Albarola
A Barbara that spends somewhere between 12 to 24 months in large (500L) French oak tonneau – and then they give it another year in bottle. Rich interpretation of Barbara that takes this usually simple wine up a notch. Plummy, smoky, black cherry, white pepper and even some coffee notes ... As it opens there's a cocoa quality that also comes through - this is a Barbara with both texture and structure beyond the norm, and it’s quite welcome.  (****)

Vino Nobile Virtually - ZOOM Tasting

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Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy

(March 2021) ... Oh how I missed my February trip to Italy this year to taste Chianti, Brunello, Vernacchia and Vino Nobile - but Nobile decided to bring the fun to me (and a choice few others) for a sit-down virtual tasting that brought together writers and producers to discuss and taste the virtues of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano … virtually.

The Vino Nobile gets its name honestly, it dates back to the 8th century and was considered the wine for a nobility. Fast forward to 1965 and the Consorzio for Nobile was founded - and with the speed of a well-aged wine, 24 years (in 1989) Vino Nobile gained the first DOCG status in Italy. Today, 6 million bottles of Vino Nobile are produced per year, of which 78% are exported: Germany leads the way with 43% followed by the US (22%), Switzerland (14.5%), and Canada somewhere in the 3.5% range.

The rules of Nobile are fairly simple - the DOCG wines are a minimum of 2 years before release, while the Reserves (Riserva) need an extra year. The current vintages for these two wines are 2018 (DOCG) and 2017 (Riserva).

The regional vineyards sit between 250 and 600m above sea level and the rules of their makeup is based on a 70/30 approach ... 70% Sangiovese with the other 30% being made up of the allowable varieties, mainly: Colorino, Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot ... and there are a handful of others allowed as well.

“Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” is the full name of the wine, but because there is sometimes confusion with consumers about the term Montepulciano, which is itself a grape variety (Montepulciano) from a completely different region (Abruzzo) - the word "Toscana” will begin appearing on the label as of 2020 and the wines will be dropping their origin (Montepulciano) in favor of the more recognizable Toscana moniker along with “Nobile” or “Vino Nobile”.

Today we tasted eight wines with five from 2017 and three from 2016; 2016 has been described to me as “perfect”, while 2017, after a long explanation, is best described as "challenging".

The Wines ... 
(ratings are out of five stars, and appear after the tasting note)

Cantina del Giusta 2017 San Claudio II
The acidity here is pretty big and it puckers the palate. Aromas are floral with a hit of alcohol heat ... The blend is 10% Canaiolo, 5% Mammolo aged in older oak and spent 8 months in bottle prior to release. There's some nice spice along with  raspberry, strawberry and sour cherry notes, plus the acidity keeps it surprisingly fresh, yet there is still quite a bit of bite back on the finish from that acid punch.  (*** ½+)

Fattoria del Cerro 2017 Silineo
This 100% Sangiovese Nobile is very leathery, smokey and earthy - from the start it seems to lack fruit aside from a little boysenberry, herbal and even some evergreen notes, followed by a touch of resin – I found that it was hard to enjoy. As it opens, there's a big savoury note and it's dusty on the tongue. Bottom line: if you like your Nobile savoury over fruity this is your wine.  (***)

Il Molinaccio 2017 La Spinosa
Another 100% Sangiovese that shows menthol, savoury and leathery notes on the nose - the mouthfeel is silky, but with more woodsy notes than fruit ... This one is raised in smaller oak casts so it shows off the oak quite a bit, more than those wines aged in botte.  (***)

Salcheto 2017 Vino Nobile do Montepulciano
These bottled grapes come from the 15-hectare Salcheto vineyard grown during the “hot dry” 2017 vintage - aged 18 months in a mix of large and small barrels and comes together in bottle another 6 months before release. First thing you'll notice is the wonderful acidity derived from the Sangiovese grape, then sour cherry and cranberry aromas give way to herbal, spices and dark fruit on the palate ... by the last swallow we're into smoked red fruits and that persistent acidity just helps clean everything up ... Great food pairing wine.  (****) ... See the video review here

Tenuta Valdipiatta 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A Nobile that hit 14% alcohol using 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo, 75% in large barrels (25% new). The nose is very seductive with blackberry, cassis, olive and even some dried leaves ... The palate has a vanilla and mocha mix with notes of smoky and woodsy undertones on the back palate - this definitely could sit a few years to develop further and potentially pull out more of the fruit hidden behind the oak and tannins.  (*** ½)

Podere Casanova 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
From the wonderful 2016 vintage, and it shows; deep dark black fruit - both of the cherry and berry variety with coffee and smoky notes backing it up. The palate has a rich-smokiness of black fruit with licorice, graphite, tobacco and even some cocoa. There's a real freshness on the mid-palate and complexity to the finish, it's fleshy and has great structure; the tannins, while aggressive, are not assertive as to overtake the wine. This definitely needs a few years to mellow.  (****+)

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A light and delicate version of Nobile from a very good vintage. Lovely raspberry notes with delicate savoury backing ... It's bright and fresh and very fruit forward; notes of blood orange and mocha / coffee ... This is a wine that really grows on you the more you sip on it. With its freshness of fruit: big notes of raspberry, strawberry, cherry and even some balsamic ... Perfect for food pairings.  (****)

Carpineto 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
There really is such an elegance to Carpeneto wines that I, as a consumer, very much appreciate, but as a writer and taster I also appreciate their complexity and structure: dark berries and dusty spices with graphite, mocha and coffee bean notes. Good tannins and spice on the finish with some bittersweet chocolate all balanced with good acidity and even a touch of smoke on the finish.  (****+)