21
Jul
2026
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Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy
June 2025 ... An offer to tour some wineries in Campania, learn about volcanic soils, taste new grape varieties, drink and eat great food and wine - and then there is the Buffalo Mozerella. All in a days work on the road in Italy.
ALOIS
A wonderful crash course in volcanic soil and the area, followed by a memorable lunch and wine tasting, made this one of the better tastings of this trip – and we’ve just begun.
2015 Caiati
(Pallagrello Bianco)
Mixing the cru vineyard with the volcanic, in stainless in a hot vintage ... alcoholic taste comes through with a citrus zesty finish. (GOOD)
2021 Morrone
(Pallagrello Bianco)
Very mouthfilling, age-worthy as the wine seems similar each year, the palate, the nose, the character. See more of these wines below. (GOOD)
2022 Morrone
(Pallagrello Bianco)
There is a more salty character, with more citrus pith, more finish, more acidity, a certain winning concentration here. This was a mildew / rainy season early on and less grapes were harvested; but the results speak for themselves. (GOOD) 
2023 Morrone
(Pallagrello Bianco)
Clay soil and their Cru wine - it has fatter character with a long finish and decent acidity. Seriously good white. (GOOD)
2018 Morrone
(Pallagrello Bianco)
Similar to the 2020 vintage: softer, rounder, subtle, spicier; larger mouthfeel, but still with good acidity and salinity (GOOD+)
2018 Murella
(Pallagrello Nero)
Blood orange on the nose; big acidity, sour cherry, cranberry and red licorice in the mouth. (GOOD+)
2013 Caiati
(Pallagrello Bianco)
Older version of the mixed the cru with the volcanic, again in stainless – this one is cool vintage. Fresh, limoncello, lemon drop, great character, no way this is 12 years old. A real eye-opener. (BETTER)
2024 Caiati
(Pallagrello Bianco)
The most recent vintage tasted - subtle citrus undertones, salty, mineral, sweaty, fresh, all with a long finish. (BETTER)
2020 Morrone 
(Pallagrello Bianco)
Proving that not all things are better with long aging. This cool vintage version show as much difference: fresher, livelier, acidity sings, grapefruit zest, finish lingers and it is pretty and damn elegant (BETTER+)
2022 Trebulanum - Riserva
(Casavecchia)
Lively and fresh, with black currant, licorice, plum and blue fruit. This is pretty with notes of floral on the nose; mineral, tannins, spice, finish the taste. This is complex; and I’ll say it again, really pretty. (BETTER+)
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DONNACHIARA
They say the wine industry has a long memory. I reviewed an older Southbrook (Ontario, Canada) wine many years ago, and I'm still told the owner has yet to forgive me. Funny thing, the wine wasn't even on his shelf anymore—it had long been sold out. It was a look back at how it had aged. 
But what about a reviewer? Are we supposed to set aside our past when we sit with a producer, say, a producer that was rude to a young writer? And do you call it out. I did not – I wrote a glowing, yet short, paragraph about my host, picked three wines I liked and moved on.
But here I am back at Donnachiara. When I last visited, our host treated me rudely, rushing me through her wines and making me feel I was not worth her time. Years later, I'm sitting down with her again, and this time she's much more cordial; yet I bet she does not remember me. Can I set aside my bias? I believe I can - in fact I let the wines speak, just as I did back in 2017 - my last visit.
2020 Taurasi Riserva
(Aglianico)
18 months minimum aging with 2 years in bottle: This ia a more oxidized, with spicier, meaty tannins. (GOOD)
2021 Lali - Rosato Extra Brut
(Aglianico)
2 years on lees - Pas Dose. Light, refreshing, and dry – it’s a nice bubble. (GOOD)
2024 Greco di Tufo DOCG
(Greco)
Basic and easy to drink, lime, mineral, salty – simple, but fresh and seafood oriented. (GOOD)
2020 Taurasi 
(Aglianico)
12 months minimum aging. Grapes come from Torre le Nocelle. Plum, black cherry, and peppery. (GOOD+)
2024 Fiano di Avellino DOCG
(Fiano)
Fresh, lively, and mineral, with plenty of citrus. (GOOD+)
2024 Empatia
(Fiano)
Single cru Montefalcione. Richer, more focused with an intense flavour profile. (GOOD+)
2024 Rosemary
(Aglianico)
Basic pink still wine with hints of cherry and rhubarb. Dry with good acidity, and plenty of citrus pith on the short finish. Nicely balanced 12% alc. (GOOD+)
2021 Taurasi
(Aglianico)
Lighter and fresher in style, dials back the dark fruit heft for a little red fruit generousity. (BETTER)
2022 Resilienza
(Falanghina)
From the area of Benevento. Fat and rich, pineapple and peach fruit with Viognier-like tropicality; but with seemingly better acidity. Pretty. (BETTER)
2023 Aletheia - Riserva
(Greco)
Single vineyard in Santa Paolina: 1 yr on fine lees; pretty floral and salty, elegant, complex there’s a lovely minerality giving this wine a long finish. (BETTER)
29
Mar
2026
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Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy
(June 2025) ... During the Sagrantino Anteprima, trips to wineries are organized where we get to try older wines, or line-up, or whatever our hosts deem would be of interest. But first a few more wines.
Here we are on the cusp of Montefalco 2026 and I’m just finishing my 2025 notes. How time does fly. On the other hand, the 2026 version of Anteprima Montefalco is occurring 2 months earlier; possibly to avoid the excess heat Umbria is experiencing and to avoid prime tourist seasons.
This is the look at the final wineries visited (5) with a shout out to Cocco Montefalco for having one of my favourite wines of the trip – and also taking part in a podcast on the next generation of Montefalco wineries, which is being led by women: (find it here).
One sad note here. A winery I looked forward to returning to proved to be a major letdown. While I believe journalists should not always be subject to special treatment, at an event such as this, there is an element of expectation that was not just met, but they fell short of even a minimum level of standards (more on that later).
But enough chastising, let’s get on to the good stuff:
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Di Filippo
2019 Etnico
(Sagrantino)
This double-picked Sagrantino has both an early and a late picking, then blended together after the oak aging. Lighter fresher style, still shows the tannin backbone but the fruit is more forward and it will drink sooner. (*** ½+)
2023 Farandola
(Spoleto - Masal selection)
A freshness of white flowers and apple, with a nice hit of minerality. (*** ½+)
2020 Montefalco Sagrantino
Smooth and silky, yet finishes with those grippy tannins and biting acidity – notes of tobacco, plum, and smoke sit on the finish. (*** ½+)
2023 Non So 2
(Barbera)
Spiced cherry leads, but there’s also a lightness here; would be good with a chill. The high acidity make it very food friendly. (*** ½)
2023 Sassi D'Arenaria
(Grechetto)
Stainless steel fermented the 4-5 days of skin contact, finally it’s then aged in anfora 12 months. Nice little wine: the acidity is killer and the flavours are fruity and punchy. (*** ½)
Terre de Trinci 
2018 Ugolino
(Sagrantino)
This Sagrantino is a selection-based wine made in the finesse vintages. Smooth, supple, and silky, with plum, black cherry, black currant, and lots of other dark fruits. Finish is lush in the mouth. This is just a killer bottle of wine. (**** ½)
2022 Cajo - Rosso IGT
(33% Sagrantino / Sangiovese / Merlot)
A smooth and silky red, with delicate tannins and a wonderful expression of fruit. (****)
2019 Montefalco Sagrantino
Lighter version of a normally heavy wine: spiced-plum and black currants along with tobacco and black cherry (*** ½+)
2023 Collo Martani
(Grechetto)
Simple, easy drinking, fresh, light, with subtle minerality. (*** ½)
2024 Divino
(Trebbiano Spoletino)
Very floral with notes of citrus pith. (*** ½)
2021 Montefalco Sagrantino
A little more gritty than the 2019; firm tannins and smoke, fruit seems to be in the backseat, instead of where it should be: driving. (*** ½)
2022 Rosso
(Sangiovese 65% / Sagrantino 15% / Merlot 10%)
Decent fruit and nicely spiced; aged 100% in concrete ... this is a very easy drinking wine. (*** ½)
Cocco Montefalco 
2020 Camorata - Rosso
(Sangiovese 70% / Merlot 10% / Sagrantino 20%)
Rich and round in the mouth with plenty of dark fruit characteristics: plum, blackberry, black cherry, hints of balsamic sweetness, lovely spice and acidity - best Rosso she has made so far. Juicy and drinkable. One of my favourite wines of the trip. (**** ½)
2017 Phonsano
(Sagrantino)
Camfor / sandlewood on the nose. Palate shows nice delicate fruit with some elegance on the finish, namely licorice, red currant and cherry. A more drink-now style, ready for the spotlight and a meal. (****+)
2019 Fontiola (Passito)
(Sagrantino)
Elegant version of this sweetie; would be good chilled: black cherry and spice – yet seemingly dry on the finish. (****)
2022 Avventata
(Spoletino)
Spends 1yr on lees, developing creamy yet fresh notes. Nice pineapple cream and well-balanced. (*** ½+)
2018 Phonsano
(Sagrantino)
A more classical Sagrantino with the spices, tobacco, noticeable alcohol, and leather ... this one takes a big bite of your tongue. (*** ½+)
2022 Ponderata
(Spoletino)
This one spends 1yr on its lees, then another on Avventata lees – plenty of grapefruit notes, but in a more subtle way. Like a grapefruit foam. (*** ½)
Romanelli - Four Years of Tasting
This special tasting was a four-year retrospective of Sagrantino showing vintage variation within the region – and with an explanation as to why based on weather conditions:
2016 Terra Cupa - Sagrantino 
Cool season, no 30 degrees days. Rainy in the last weeks (picking: 24-28 October). This one is big on acidity, leathery instead of fruity, but with a long finish. Supple tannins with aggressive tendencies - this one dried out quickly.
2017 Terra Cupa - Sagrantino
Opposite to the 2016 vintage: dry and hot all the way thru (picking: 26-30 October) - riper and juicier flavours, with more fruit, but with aggressive tannins; approachable from one standpoint, but ageable from another.
2018 Terra Cupa - Sagrantino
Strange season, first half normal with the right amount of rain; July-November, no rain. October saw higher than normal temperatures, grapes/vines got stressed and stopped maturing (pick date: 24 Oct): Acidity and tannins grip; the fruit is playing a background role this wine has more herbal and savoury notes.
2019 Terra Cupa - Sagrantino
Classic vintage for area, hot summer, but in the late summer the temperatures dropped slowly, and there were 5 days of rain, but with low nighttime temperatures; good quality vintage (picking: end Oct): Elegant, even in its youth, with great balance of acidity and tannins, spiced-plum, cherry, and balsamic. This one’s is a real winner.
Bonus Wine:
2022 Le Tese - Spoletino
Canned pineapple, canned peaches – spent 65 days on skin, then 2 years in oak: orange and herbal, dried white flowers, smoky, with a deep yellow colour. I sit on the fence on this wine. Still not a huge fan of this style.
Arnaldo Caprai
A disappointing tasting explained: It has been years since I visited Capraia, because many years ago I visited with a very small group – 2 writers and a restaurateur – from Toronto. We met Marco Capraia, had a lovely dinner and wonderful “merenda” on a hill overlooking his vineyards, while he described the area and told stories about his family and the region in the early days: (check it out here - bottom of page). I did not expect the same during this visit, how could you? But I also did not expect to be treated as we were; culminating in six journalists from around the world being put on a public tour with half a dozen tourists, and three children. A wasted opportunity to show their top tier and most notable wines (which we did ask for); instead, we were poured their everyday offerings. Disappointment does not begin to describe how we were treated; and the missed opportunity by Capraia to show why they are considered a celebrated leader of the region. Instead, they showed how for the mighty have fallen. Scores only for these wines: 
2022 Rosso Riserva (****+)
2023 Rosso (****)
2021 25th Anniversary Sagrantino (*** ½+)
2021 Colleppiano - Sagrantino (*** ½+)
2024 Bianco - Grechetto Trebbiano (*** ½)
2023 Grecanto - Grechetto (*** ½)
